Florence — La Gemma
A journalist friend whose taste I've learned to trust nudged me towards La Gemma. Family-owned, it boasts 39 rooms dressed in deep emerald with generous marble bathrooms. The restaurant Luca's takes its food seriously without making you feel like you should too. Prices sit well below Florence's grand old institutions and the whole thing feels genuinely contemporary. No small thing in a city that can sometimes feel upholstered to within an inch of its life.
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Lake Como — Musa Lago di Como
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